Dry is the new aero: Bikepacking in Scotland & Isle of Skye

Scotland in May: six days by gravel bike through the Highlands, across the Isle of Skye and along Loch Ness. It rains a lot, the wind mostly blows in our faces, and still this trip is unforgettable – because of the landscape, because of a crazy stretch of gravel on day five and because of all the little British firsts along the way. The route runs from Balloch on Loch Lomond via Glenfinnan, Skye and Fort Augustus to Inverness.

Day 1: Keep left and British firsts

The trip starts with a detour nobody planned: we miss our connecting flight in London and arrive in Glasgow 26 hours late. That wipes out the first planned stage. With Komoot I re-route so that we get back onto the originally planned track. A regional train takes us and the bikes to Balloch, and off we go.

For a while we roll along a quiet cycle path on the shore of Loch Lomond, but for most of the day we're on a rather big road. The views make up for it: cloud-covered mountains, black-faced sheep, lochs fading away into the grey. The biggest challenge isn't the route but the side of the road. Ride on the left, turn left, don't get into the wrong lane at a roundabout – at first that takes all my concentration.

In a café I get introduced to fruit scones, and that's not all: other British firsts are chips and gravy, a bacon and egg roll and shortbread.

We get soaked. Several times. Between two showers the ruin of Kilchurn Castle appears on Loch Awe under low clouds, and by then it's clear: despite everything, this is a beautiful start to the week.

Day 2: Seals, the Harry Potter viaduct and a pod by the sea

In the morning in Barcaldine we first wait for the rain to stop. The wait pays off: we stay mostly dry for the rest of the day. Soon after setting off, Castle Stalker sits on its little island in the loch, and a bit further on we spot seals.

Around Fort William we make a few questionable route choices. We'd been advised to only ride into town if we absolutely had to – but the only pharmacy and cash machine for miles are there, and we're hungry too. Looking back, I can only agree with that advice: if you can, don't ride into Fort William.

The first highlight comes right after: Glenfinnan and the viaduct the Hogwarts Express crosses in the Harry Potter films. We take a break, have a look at the old dining car and then roll on westwards.

The road between Glenfinnan and Arisaig winds through hills and mountains, past Loch Eilt with its little island of pines. It feels almost alpine. In the evening we settle into our glamping pod – right on the rocks by the sea, with a view of the water from the deck.

Day 3: Sky(e)walker – pretty wet and pretty pretty

From Mallaig we take the ferry to the Isle of Skye. On the way something surfaces in the water – a dolphin or a whale, we can't quite tell.

Skye welcomes us with heavy rain. At lunch we seriously consider calling it a day. What saves me is my rain cape: dry is the new aero. We carry on – and we're rewarded. The afternoon is the second highlight of the trip: we ride over the hills and passes of Skye with a strong headwind but under blue skies, with the dark jagged peaks of the Cuillin ahead of us.

We spend the night in Dunvegan. Unfortunately, I can't recommend the accommodation there.

Day 4: Tough, tougher, Scotland

This day on Skye is a grind. My legs burn with every metre of climbing, and the whole time we try to outrun the rain. At some point we find a bus that's supposed to take bikes. It doesn't. So back on the bike.

On the descents fierce crosswinds catch us and push the bike around unpleasantly. There are moments of real despair that day, and yet somehow I enjoy it.

The reward in the evening: a great place to stay in Broadford, with a big bathtub. Exactly what my legs need.

Day 5: Epic scenery, a crazy gravel adventure and Highland cattle

We get back to the mainland on the small, very cute ferry from Kylerhea to Glenelg. A beautiful coastal road follows as far as Corran – only the wind and rain almost blow us off our bikes.

We stop for lunch at a little hut in Arnisdale: tomato soup and a toastie.

And then comes the part that turns this trip into a real adventure: gravel and some hike-a-bike over to Kinlochhourn. We ride on a double track of gravel and grass through a high valley, a loch between green mountains below us, and a few times we carry the bikes through streams. Our shoes are wet after that, for good. At the top we're hit by rain and hail before we walk back down. Epic – and for me the third highlight of the trip.

With a tailwind and only the odd shower we carry on. Around Loch Quoich and Loch Poulary the landscape is stunning once more, and Highland cattle with their calves stand right by the water and next to the road.

By the time we reach Fort Augustus we're done and dusted. An epic day – but so, so wet.

Day 6: No sign of Nessie

The last stage is short and scenic. Breakfast is scones with jam, then we ride along and above the famous Loch Ness to Inverness. Nessie doesn't show up.

It's not entirely drama-free, though: one tyre is slowly losing air. It probably happened yesterday on the crazy gravel section.

In the capital of the Highlands we enjoy one more afternoon and evening before heading home by train and plane. What a trip.

Good to know

• Getting there: A regional train runs from Glasgow to Balloch; you don't need a bike reservation for it.
• Getting back: On the train from Inverness to Glasgow a bike reservation is mandatory and spaces are limited. Book early.
• Driving on the left: Especially on the first days, riding on the left takes a lot of concentration, above all when turning and at roundabouts.
• Route: Part of the route runs on rather big roads. Day 3 on Skye and days 5 and 6 are particularly beautiful. I'd avoid Fort William if at all possible.
• Day 5: The section to Kinlochhourn is gravel with pushing and carrying and stream crossings. Allow extra time and expect wet feet.
• Rain and wind: Pack really good rain gear – my rain cape was worth its weight in gold. On Skye the crosswinds on descents can be fierce.
• Buses: Don't count on a bus taking your bike. Ask beforehand.
• Ferries: You reach the Isle of Skye by ferry from Mallaig and get back to the mainland on the small ferry from Kylerhea to Glenelg.